Ezogiku Okachimachi

The Showa-era atmosphere can almost be smelled at Ezogiku, an offshoot of its Takadanobaba namesake. Located under the Yamanote tracks at Okachimachi Station, the shop is easy to spot by its eye-catching scarlet sign. First-timers will want to order the old-school miso ramen, served with cream-coloured, curly noodles and a whole heap of moyashi sprouts and menma. The taste can be tweaked with sesame seeds, garlic and chilli pepper, but doesn't really require any more enhancement than that. Those tired of miso ramen might want to try their equally passable shio or shoyu choices. This one stays open until 5am, serving hungry night owls until the first trains start running on the tracks above.