Tokyo's coolest kakigori

Japan's traditional summer treat, kakigori (shaved ice with syrup), made a strong comeback last year: specialist shops started popping up all over town, regularly attracting queues that bordered on the ridiculous. The trend shows absolutely no signs of slowing down in 2015 – on the contrary, the spring opening of a certain Taiwanese import saw some Tokyoites wait up to six hours (?!) for a taste of the frozen delicacy. As kakigori is also becoming a year-round treat – though we're still having trouble wrapping our heads around why anyone would choose to pay for ice in winter – this guide points the way to Tokyo's very best shaved ice shops, all of them open throughout the four seasons.

Ichiniisan

The Kagoshima-born Shirokuma has to be one of Japan's best-known kakigori varieties – it's sold at convenience stores across the country in bar form. Getting the real thing without making a trip to Kyushu can be a challenge though, so we're grateful to the Ichiniisan restaurant, found inside the Kagoshima 'antenna shop' in Yurakucho, for bringing the 'white bear' to Tokyo. Get ready for an impressive mountain of milky ice, topped with ample oranges, pineapple and cherries, plus three kinds of sweet beans. If the regular size looks a little challenging, try going for the miniature version, known as Koguma ('small bear').
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Beer Bar Lupulin

Combine your ice with a brew at this fun watering hole that serves up domestic craft beer from top breweries like Fujizakura Heights, Kisoji and Ise Kadoya. Some visitors seem to seek out the place exclusively in search of the excellent kakigori, made with natural ice and topped with a well-balanced, lightly sweet fruit mixture. Do note, however, that the bar requires one order before the dessert becomes available.
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Kakigori Cafe & Bar Yelo

One of 2014's hottest newcomers, this Roppongi joint stays open until the wee hours of the morning, serving ice-hungry clubbers and other nocturnal folk in a stylish space just off the main crossing. Unorthodox flavours like avocado, acai and carrot-mascarpone are the name of the game – we especially like the latter, which combines fresh cheese with natural carrot pure, making for a perfectly refreshing choice on a hot summer night.
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Ice Monster

Earning the title of 2015's hottest upstart is Taiwan's much-hyped Ice Monster, which set up shop along Omotesando in April to a raucous reception and up to five-hour (!) queues. Head over for Taipei-born flavours like mango, coffee ice and milk tea with tapioca pearls, complete with a texture meant to resemble powder snow.
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Sebastián

Shaved ice meets cream cake at this restaurant that’s created their very own version of kakigori, which they call ‘dolce shaved ice’. Watching the owner expertly assemble his original Mango Shortcake kakigori is fascinating – layers of ice, mango syrup, whipped cream and mango pieces come together to form what looks exactly like a real cake. Best thing is that you can have your cake and eat it without worrying too much about the calorie count – it’s just ice inside!
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Icho no Ki

It isn't the easiest place to find, but those passing through the area between Shinagawa and Oimachi will do well do opt for a tea and kakigori break at this traditional kissaten-style sweets shop, named after the impressive ginkgo tree outside. Choose freely from a wide variety of toppings and styles, including cake and pie formats, or go straight for the orthodox Uji Shiratama mixture, made with green tea- and milk-flavoured ice plus a hearty helping of anko bean paste and fresh shiratama rice dumplings. The wa is strong with this one.
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Kajitsu Club

It doesn't look like much from the outside, but this Nakameguro purveyor serves straight up excellent kakigori, available in seasonal flavours like peach and Yubari melon as well as standard varieties such as mango, strawberry and kiwi. The sparkly ice comes in two varieties, with the konayuki ('powder snow') sourced from the slopes of Mount Fuji and the shiroyuki ('white snow') made with Kyushu-produced milk – both actually demonstrate a snow-like, soft texture.
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Kanna

This Setagaya shop charms with natural ice sourced from Tochigi's Nikko and flavours that veer toward the traditional: think anko-flavoured choices and basics like strawberry and other fruity mixes. We, however, like the Rich Yam and Milk Sauce kakigori, a light and refreshing option topped with a sweet purple yam sauce. Trust us – it tastes way better than it looks.
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Yukiusagi

Originally a summer-only dessert at the soba shop upstairs, the kakigori at this Sakura-Shinmachi joint proved so popular that the owners decided to rent an extra space just for the purpose of serving deluxe shaved ice. Their innovative flavour combinations include the popular 'strawberry cheese' and the mighty 'watermelon', but first-timers will want to try the curious 'summer pumpkin caramel', a sweet and voluminous creation perfect for big eaters. The space turns into a seafood izakaya at night, but kakigori stays on the menu throughout.
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Minatoya

Minatoya, a takoyaki shop along one of Sasazuka's shopping arcades, sells Amazake Shaved Ice, a nutrient-rich kakigori (it has been called 'the drinkable IV') with syrup made from fermented rice – it's naturally sweet, which means no sugar is added – and ginger slices on top. If you order any of their kakigori with fruit or vegetable-based toppings, you'll be pleased to know that all ingredients are blended up fresh as you order.
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Shimura

This traditional sweet maker, not far from Mejiro Station, is one of Tokyo's most enduringly popular spots for kakigori – and deservedly so: doused in syrup laden with real fruit (an all-too-rare sight), their strawberry treats look good and taste even better. Extra milk can be added for ¥100, while the standard ice can be swapped for natural ice from Yatsugatake for another 100. However, said option is popular enough for the finer freeze to run out long before closing time on most days.
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Darumaya Mochigashiten

Found up in Jujo, Darumaya is a classic Japanese sweets shop that just happens to also serve brilliant kakigori. Their signature dessert is Ujikintoki, made with matcha that's whisked up fresh for every order. Its subtle bitterness is offset by a topping of sweet azuki bean paste. The natural ice here comes from Nikko's Shogetsu Himuro, one of the country's most celebrated purveyors.
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Himitsudo

Anyone who thinks that traditional Japanese sweet shops are a dying breed should pay a visit to this charming Yanaka eatery. Himitsudo specialises in kakigori, prepared with a traditional handle-operated machine and served with one of 132 ‘secret’ seasonal toppings (the selection changes daily). Even diehard fans might be surprised by some of the concoctions on offer here – pumpkin cream and mango-yogurt are just two of the unorthodox toppings we've come across – but nobody can deny the power of their signature strawberry kakigori, a concoction more like ice cream than just ice. Be warned that the shop is extremely popular and often sells out early.
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Asakusa Naniwaya

This taiyaki speciality shop offers a shaved ice treat called Asayake, which depicts the sunrise atop Mt Fuji. The sweet and sour syrup is made from fresh strawberries, unsweetened milk and homemade sweet bean paste, which is cooked for eight hours for the taiyaki. These three ingredients create a wonderful balance of flavours when combined with the soft ice. The Kinako kakigori, which combines kinako (roasted soybean flour) and brown sugar syrup, is also very popular.
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Fruit Parlour Goto

Better known for its fruit parfaits, Asakusa's Goto also offers kakigori year-round. Their top seller has always been the Suika (watermelon), an extremely simple dessert topped with watermelon syrup and large fruit pieces. Showing off the freshness of the ingredients, are we now?
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