Gatemo Tabum

Tokyo diners with a penchant for obscure national cuisines are probably going to enjoy this homely café in Yoyogi-Uehara, the only restaurant in the country to specialise in Bhutanese food. Given that even gently spiced curries can leave many Japanese eaters gasping for air, it's probably not surprising that there isn't more demand for Bhutan's de facto national dish, ema datshi – a stew of whole chilis served in a cheesy broth. The spiciness of the dish fluctuates according to the season, but at its best it's a fiery, umami-laden concoction – well worth sampling. There's a range of other meat and vegetable stews on offer, all of them rather more gently spiced, plus a few other staple Bhutanese dishes like steamed momo dumplings and cottage cheese salad. Gatemo Tabum is also open for lunch, when you can choose one of three set meals for ¥850. Call ahead if you're going with a group, as there aren't many seats.