Bistro un coup

It's certainly one of Tokyo's most hard-working bistros: this petite French eatery in Hiroo opens at 8am and doesn't close until midnight, during which time it rotates through a variety of phases – petit dejeuner, lunch, afternoon café, dinner, wine bar. Bistro un coup's maître d' is a familiar face around these parts: sommelier Mizuki Iino used to work at Le Garcon de la Vigne, just up the road. He's supported in the kitchen by former Azabu Haus chef Tsutomu Maruyama, whose dinner menu staples include roast Bresse chicken with porcini sauce, beef round with pureed foie gras and summer truffles, and suppon turtle soup. The breakfast sets don't cost much more than you'd pay in an old-school Japanese kissaten, while the lunch offerings are notable for including a ¥1,650 vegetarian spread, served complete with a berry smoothie.