Koshuya

Sitting right by the station and serving thirsty residents of Machiya since 1951, this traditional neighbourhood izakaya ticks all the boxes for quality: free-flowing highballs and Hoppy on tap (¥420), excellent food, and regulars manning the counter long before sunset. The master cooks everything himself, and you won't be complaining: any of the fish choices will surely satisfy, but we especially liked the fried squid (pictured) and tuna sashimi – fresh, expertly prepared and reasonably priced. If you're more into meat, try the Miyazaki chicken or pork, sourced directly from producers, and combine your carnivorous delight with some chunky, homemade French fries. As for the nihonshu selection, stalwarts like Fumetsu-no-Kyojin and Kariho are the most popular choices. The interior is rather spacious, but groups of four or more might still want to call ahead and make a booking.