Gotaru

You might have to fly over to Fukuoka to get Hakata ramen more authentic than this: Numabukuro's Gotaru does orthodox tonkotsu soup better than virtually anyone in western Tokyo, attracting pilgrims from all over town even on weekdays. Customise your bowl with chilli powder, pickled ginger, sesame seeds and garlic, and remember to order one of their dirt-cheap but tasty rice dishes on the side. The menu also includes offbeat choices like Spicy Red Ramen – great for adventurous slurpers.