Hainan Jeefan Shokudo 2

The younger sibling of the better known Roppongi branch of Hainan Jeefan Shokudo is perhaps a little more intimate, though no less popular. Their speciality is Hainan chicken rice, a dish claimed by Thailand and Malaysia, though presented here as a Singaporean speciality. Whichever its origin, it is most commonly found in street stalls, so the version you're getting in this pleasant setting is what you might call an upmarket rendition.

A juicy piece of chicken breast is served as plainly as possible, accompanied by a selection of three sauces (garlic, soy and spicy) and a very thin chicken broth, with the suggestion that you play mix and match with all the ingredients until you find a taste that suits you best. With the rice as little more than filler, it's very hard to go wrong with this kind of meal – the worst they could do is undercook your chicken – and so the whole affair becomes a kind of enjoyable culinary experiment, the results of which are your own responsibility.

Though this branch is located on a quite Ebisu backstreet some way from the station, don't assume it'll suffer from a lack of custom. Lunches are served from 11.30am, and by midday it's usually heaving. Our advice: get there early if you want to get in at all.