Vento e Mare

You can feel the heat of the wood-fired oven when you walk into this popular pizzeria in Fudomae. The brick-red walls and central, open-plan kitchen – where the oven points directly at the entrance – make Vento e Mare an agreeable spot for a casual dinner. It also does reasonably priced lunch sets, starting at ¥980 for salad, pizza and drink. Our margherita is heavy on the tomato sauce and a little floppy as a result, but we like the fluffy, well-charred cornicione. In a welcome respite from the identikit menus you'll find elsewhere, the selection also includes a heart-shaped Romana and another pizza whose topping seems to consist of nothing but corn and cheese (okay, we're not so sure about that one). In the evening, the menu expands to include dishes like grilled lamb and marinated sardines.