Marutama

You can spot this Ryogoku ramen shop by its red tama sign retro exterior, complete with bamboo blinds and a timber door. Marutama is known for its white, chicken-based soup, which acquires its delicate flavour over six hours of patient simmering. Served with a special salt dressing, the basic marutama ramen (¥650) is a lot lighter than it looks, with curly noodles and melt-in-the-mouth chashu pork slices. If you're looking for a novel topping, get the aosa ramen (¥850), where a generous serving of fresh sea lettuce complements the subtle flavour of the broth and noodles. Kaedama noodle refills are available for ¥100, and come with spicy scallions and garlic chips, but be sure to get there early – Marutama closes when it runs out of soup.