Napolimania

On a back street roughly halfway between Shibuya and Omotesando stations, this trattoria-slash-pizzeria has staked out a spot in an area that must boast one of the highest concentrations of Italian restaurants in the whole of Tokyo. Run by a pair of bona fide Italians, Napolimania occupies a cosy (rad: cramped) space, with a row of tables against one wall and a counter, ideal for single diners, overlooking the kitchen (which on Time Out's first visit was manned by two of the burliest chefs you'd find this side of a penal facility). At lunch, you can chose between pizza or a plate generously piled with three types of antipasti and the day's pasta, both accompanied by coffee or orange juice – which at ¥800 is a real bargain. Even at dinner, a margherita will only run you ¥1,000 – half the price they charge at nearby Napule, despite being of a similar calibre. We've found the bianca pizzas at Napolimania can get a little stodgy sometimes, but the rossa (tomato base) varieties are generally very good, with light crusts that retain their firmness rather than dumping all the topping on your plate. Be warned that it can get very busy on weekday evenings, so advance reservations are a good idea.