Shiojiri Jozojo

Chef Nobuaki Fushiki brings a special spin to what still looks like an ordinary neighbourhood wine bar; the room looks comfortable, not at all designed, the culinary equivalent of an old pair of slippers. The menu begins with simple options (lunchtime bento boxes start at ¥700) but the bill can ramp up quickly if you order more unusual items such as horsemeat sashimi. Highlights of the self-styled hakko-ryori ('fermentation cuisine') on our visit included the chef’s version of a dish of cuttlefish shiokara, marinated in hishio and amazake, rather than, as is traditional, in its own guts, and resulting in a less salty and pungent flavour; a platter of seafood lightly marinated in various forms of koji products; and sanma (Pacific saury), the filleted fish firmly textured and sweet. Little surprises from the chef can be part of a meal, such as a glass of dark mirin that resembled an aged sherry more than a cooking liquor. Shiojiri Jozojo’s not for everyone, but for true believers in traditional Japanese cooking, he’s an inspiration.

Click here to read our interview with the chef and learn more about his 'fermentation cuisine'.