Yamadaya

Yamadaya, hidden away in the traditionally Korean residential area of Mikawashima, is a long-standing yakiniku restaurant specialising in horumon (offal). There's a sense of rustic simplicity in their meats – start with the salted beef intestine nikomi for an easy introduction to the Yamadaya taste, and then go for classics like beef liver. The latter is best grilled carefully over low heat, drawing out the flavours without letting the meat go dry. Their sagari-yaki (pork skirt steak) is a true wonder to behold: when carefully prepared, it has none of the skirt steak's characteristic toughness in it, and lets off a rich, savoury flavour that gradually builds in your mouth when chewing. Finally, the menabura-yaki (fat from the upper neck of a cow) is a delight that's hard to find anywhere else. Remember to cook it thoroughly, which allows for a soft texture and a strong umami taste.