Torihisa

While it’s far from cheap, this upscale yakitori joint in the backstreets of Harajuku serves some exceedingly good grilled chicken. The owner cuts an imposing figure with his traditional clothes and swept-back hair, but he's a disarmingly friendly character. Pull up a seat at the counter and order a few of the shop specialities: favourites include sabi-yaki – seared chicken breast served with freshly grated wasabi and a splash of soy sauce – and tsukune skewers made with pieces of crunchy nankotsu (cartilage). The drinks list includes a good selection of saké, shochu and wine, but if you’re after something a little more interesting, go for the sharishari, a partially frozen saké that makes for a superbly refreshing drink. Round off your meal with a bowl of chicken soup, made from a rich stock of slow-simmered chicken bones.