Okame

One of Japan's favourite winter foods, oden (ingredients simmered slowly in soy broth) is usually synonymous with convenience stores and cheap standing bars. For a more upmarket spin on the dish, head to this two-floor eatery near Higashi-Kitazawa Station, which specialises in the Kansai version, as opposed to the darker Kanto variety. Pretty much everything on offer tastes sublime after having a good simmer in Okame's broth, but the tofu and octopus are particular standouts. There's also a selection of sashimi and small dishes on offer – though whatever you're having, make sure to finish with the ochazuke, made with the same dashi stock as the oden. Reservations are only accepted for the upstairs room, but you'll have more fun sat at the counter downstairs, where you can watch the chefs at work in the open plan kitchen.