Treats abound underground

In department stores, head downstairs for foodie delights

Treats abound underground

The depachika in Takashimaya

The word depachika is a fusion of depa, meaning ‘department store’, and chika, the Japanese word for ‘basement’, and it’s these nether regions of Tokyo’s vast stores that cater to the nation’s foodies. This is the place to come for glistening pieces of sushi, top-grade green tea, delicate Japanese wagashi confectionery and those famously overpriced melons.
Shops and stalls are grouped together by product, so wandering the depachika is a sensory treat as the yeasty bakery smell gives way to sweet pickle, fresh fish, a fruity tang or a subtle sugary whiff.
There’s a dizzying array of seafood – raw, dried or cured – including slabs of the famous otoro (fatty tuna). In the meat section, look for the marbled cuts of beef from cows that have enjoyed a lifestyle of massages and, more bizarrely, beer.

And if you’re souvenir shopping, check out the exquisite Japanese confectioneries. They look like mini works of art and are usually studded with seasonal motifs.
Some of Japan’s most beloved brands, such as Toraya, renowned for its adzuki- bean yokan cakes, have been hawking their wares downstairs for generations. But they now compete with an increasing number of major international purveyors, including Fauchon, Harrods, Hediards and all the big-name chocolatiers. The basement of Tobu in Ikebukuro offers the widest selection, with well over 200 stalls, but more renowned destinations include Isetan in Shinjuku and Mitsukoshi in Ginza.
And when you’ve finished with the food, head upstairs, where most stores offer quality lacquerware, ceramics and tools.

Time Out Tokyo Guide (6th edition published in 2010)

Please note: All information is correct at the time of writing but is subject to change without notice.

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