Six ways to discover the art of Japanese cuisine

Long before Tabelog, Michelin or Time Out came along to inform Tokyoites of where to eat in the world’s food capital, Kitaoji Rosanjin (1883-1959) relied on his palate, sense of aesthetics, and formidable physical endurance to build up a reputation as the city’s top epicure. Courting plenty of controversy, his criticism nevertheless built the basis on which today’s gourmands base their pursuits.

Rosanjin’s ideas and the culinary aesthetics they inspired are the focus of L’art de Rosanjin, a cutting-edge exhibition first held at the Guimet Museum in Paris in 2013. Combining food with digital art, the project has been completely revamped for its Tokyo stop, which will take place between March 6 and 24 at Nihonbashi’s Coredo Muromachi. While maintaining the spirit and style of the original exhibit, the Tokyo edition sees Ginza restaurant Kyubey team up with other renowned local restaurants connected to Rosanjin, joining forces to create a display centred on ‘edible art’.

As co-producers of the exhibition, we here at Time Out Tokyo are in a perfect position to give you a little sneak peek of what’s in store. Read on for six things to look forward to at Japanese Culinary Immersion…

1. Feel the season on a plate…

Seasonal variation is an indispensable part of Japanese cuisine, and this digital projection display takes you through a culinary spring via virtual recreations of dishes served at some of Tokyo’s finest traditional restaurants.

2. Eat like the man himself…

The exhibit will see limited-edition tasting menus offered by restaurants like Ginza’s Kyubey and Kioicho’s Fukudaya – both favourites of Rosanjin, who made sure to maintain close relationships with the proprietors.

3. Discover high-tech gastronomy…

Just like Rosanjin in his day, Keisuke Matsushima is a culinary innovator, pushing the art of food forward at his Michelin-starred restaurant. Don’t miss this chance to sample his creations, which fuse technology and gastronomy.

4. Experience the height of hospitality…

Japanese cuisine is just as much about the impeccable service as it is about the food. Get a taste of this ‘omotenashi’ at a virtual recreation of tempura restaurant Tenmo in Nihonbashi, where the sounds of freshly fried tempura welcome you into a world of exquisite hospitality.

5. Get a sneak peek of the sakura…

The cherry blossoms might be a little late this year, so impatient sakura-watchers will be happy to get an advance look at the flowers at this ‘virtual hanami’ section, complete with digital projections and artificial trees.

6. Snap a selfie in front of a giant bowl

‘The tableware is the kimono of cuisine’ – Rosanjin’s words reveal a fascination with pairing the right bowls, plates and chopsticks with the right food. This giant reproduction of a Rosanjin bowl is brought to ‘life’ with cutting-edge media tech, allowing visitors to appreciate it like a painting.

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