Kitcho

This is often described as Kyoto’s most exclusive restaurant, but it’s only the cost that keeps the hoipolloi away (lunch starts at ¥36,750, dinner at ¥42,000). Chef Kunio Tokuoka produces food that’s seasonal, colourful and almost too beautiful to eat. Elegant service, antique ceramic dishes and impeccable rooms with garden views still don’t quite account for the immoderate price tag, but for gastronomes looking to tick boxes, this is one of the city’s big-name restaurants.