Il Ghiottone

One of Japan’s few celebrity chefs, and the only one known for Italian fare, Yasuhiro Sasajima uses Kyoto ingredients and techniques twist classic Italian recipes. He boils pasta in kelp for an umami boost, and uses veg more common to kaiseki than a ristorante. This flagship restaurant, near Kodai-ji, takes bookings from the first of the preceding month, and fills up fast. A more casual cucineria opened in 2008 a few blocks away, and is often where you’ll find the Capo these days.