Mikoan

Temples come in all shapes and sizes, but they don’t usually look like this: a city-centre house with a cluttered restaurant counter running through what was once the living room. You probably won’t believe it’s a place of worship, until you see the Buddha on the kitchen shelf between the Bailey’s and the cassis liqueur. Mikoan is run by a nun and her mum, both of whom are passionate peace activists. They serve vegetarian Japanese fare, and the dinner set (four dishes plus soup and rice for ¥1,000) is probably the best value meal in the city.