Kikunoi

Yoshihiro Murata is the Gordon Ramsay of Japanese cuisine. From TV shows to newspaper columns to coffee table books, he’s everywhere. This makes him a controversial figure in a city that considers self-promotion vulgar, but if you book a meal at Kikunoi, you’ll understand what the fuss is about. One of Murata’s signature dishes arrives garnished with burning pine needles, another is cooked in a vacuum pack. Not all the food will be familiar, even to fans of Japanese cuisine, but adventurous palates will be well rewarded.