Utsukushi no Yu

While most of Tokyo's inner-city onsen are either glorified sento or pricey theme parks, Utsukushi no Yu is a real gem, offering attractive outdoor rotenburo baths and a range of indoor tubs and saunas for under ¥1,000. Located in the western neighbourhood of Takaido, the complex is run by a local swimming club, and at weekends bathers are given free run of the 25m indoor pool (hence the ¥300 price increase). The facilities also include a 'relaxation room' fitted out with rows of reclining chairs, and a restaurant that serves cheap noodles and other Japanese-style comfort food.