Breakfast at Tsukiji

The Tsukiji wholesale market is one of Tokyo's most prominent sightseeing spots, always attracting hordes of both tourists and locals. Although a culinary experience here usually involves sushi or other seafood fare, Tsukiji connoisseurs know it's not all about raw fish. Here's our list of the best places both inside and outside the market for everything from classic curry rice, surprisingly tasty bread, and the obligatory super-fresh sushi, so set your alarm clock and start the day with a truly extraordinary breakfast. Don't bother to get up early on Sunday or holidays though - the market is always closed on those days (as well as on certain Wednesdays).

Inside the market

Mackerel Fry Set at Hachiyo

This tonkatsu pork cutlet place inside the market area also serves up great fried seafood, made from fish so fresh that it would make terrific sashimi. The menu's diverse, with combo plates of everything from tiger prawns to mackerel and scallops. Believe it or not, the fried jack mackerel set (¥1,000) is a true culinary achievement, and makes for a great way to start the day off right.
Opening hours: 5am-1pm
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'Atama Rice' at Toyo-chan

The menu here is loaded with standard Japanese-style 'Western' dishes like pork cutlets with rice and omu-rice dishes, but Toyo-chan also offers the popular 'Atama Rice' plate (¥1,010), in which the cutlet and other toppings ('atama') are served separately from the rice itself. The portions are generous, but the meat is lean and the sauces aren't too heavy either, so dig in all you want.
Opening hours: 6am-2pm
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Anago-don (eel bowl) at Angoya Takahashi

Seafood restaurant Takahashi's headliner Anago-don (eel bowl with rice, ¥1,300) features luxuriously thick eel, flavoured with subtly sweet dipping sauce. Although you might want to go easy on the wasabi around breakfast time, the treacherous green paste really does bring out the best in the dish. Those not satisfied with the usual serving size should try the 'Super Anago-don' (¥2,100), served on Fridays and Saturdays only.
Opening hours: 8am-1pm
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Indian Curry at Nakae

Nakae's Indian Curry House serves up handmade curries for 500 yen - a price that's hard to beat anywhere in Tokyo. Cooked for two days in total and containing a wealth of onions and pork ribs, this compentently-spiced variety is one for the ages. The combo dish, either with beef curry or a tomato-based sauce (¥600), is also highly recommended.
Opening hours: 5am-2pm
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Shellfish Mix at Iwasa Sushi

Queue up at Sushidai, Yamato Sushi or other renowned places for a taste of Tsukiji's famed sushi - or skip the waiting altogether and head to Iwasa. A group of affiliated companies operates eight Iwasa locations inside Tsukiji, buying up the best seafood available (including some unbelievably tasty clams) every day. This is shellfish lover heaven: try seven kinds of clams or mussels and one roll in the Shellfish Mix (¥3,300) - a perfect morning deal after a night of serious drink-sipping.
Opening hours: 6am-2.30pm
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Beef bowl at the original Yoshinoya

This small shop inside the market area is where gyudon conglomerate Yoshinoya first got started. The interior features curious ceramic sculptures of riverside fish markets and the like, but the menu's the same as you'd find at any other outlet: beef bowls, beef platters, and a variety of side dishes. The staff consists mainly of veterans who take great pride in their work, and will gladly treat you with extra broth, extra oil, and so forth.
Opening hours: 5am-1pm
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Oyster noodles at Yaji-ma

This Chinese eatery is renowned for its 'Jumbo Steamed Meat Dumplings' (there's something to that name), but also cooks up many other authentic classics. Try the seasonal (October-March only) oyster noodles (kaki ramen, ¥850), a hearty dish of salty ramen topped with garlic, onions, and four or five sizable oysters.
Opening hours: 4.30am-1pm
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Exquisite fish at Kato

Japanese restaurant Kato specialises in seasonal seafood flavours, serving a selection of delicious sashimi, simmered, salt-broiled, grilled, and boiled fish, all cooked to order. The Soy Sauce Alfonsino Set (price varies; from ¥1,600) is a great savoury choice that comes with rice and vegetables.
Opening hours: 5am-1.30pm
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The Special Set at Senri-Ken

People who work in the Tsukiji market take their breaks at Café Senri-Ken, famed for its pork fillet sandwiches. The 'Special Set' (¥1,000) is a great breakfast choice, consisting of a creamy soup (complete with a soft-boiled egg), toast, salad, and coffee or black tea. Get there early and take in the no-frills atmosphere.
Opening hours: 4am-12.30pm
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Outside the market

Boiled Chicken and Vegetable Set at Chicken Eatery Torito Bunten

Torito, run by a chicken wholesaler, is unquestionably the top Tsukiji destination for bird-eaters. Go all-out with the Boiled Chicken and Vegetable Set (¥1,050), which features a creamy white soup made with salty stock base - perfect for a chilly morning by the sea. Treat your taste buds to a feast at Torito, and you might feel ready for an early nap.
Opening hours: 7.30am-2.30pm
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Japanese Spa[ghetti] at 4 Season

Located a short walk from the market itself, 4 Season draws an endless stream of customers with its 'traditional' sausage- and onion-topped margarine spaghetti, known locally as 'Japanese Spa' (¥820). Don't expect any Italian flavours here - the seasoning relies heavily on soy sauce, and a massive pile of shiso leaves nearly covers the noodles.
Opening hours: 7.30am-5pm
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Tuna Bowl at Segawa

Tsukiji's got no shortage of restaurants combining seafood with rice, but Segawa is clearly among the cream of the crop. Very popular with the regular crowd, this down-to-earth eatery carries top-quality lean, thick tuna, serving it with a soy sauce made with an inherited 'secret' recipe, creating a nice balance with the vinegary rice. The daily special's a great choice at 1,500 yen as well, but you really can't go wrong with the basic Tuna Bowl (¥800).
Opening hours: 7.30am-as long as stock lasts
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Raw Sea Urchin Set at Suzuki Fisheries

Suzuki Fisheries deals in sashimi, boiled, and grilled fish, and at very reasonable prices to boot. The main draw here is unquestionably the Raw Sea Urchin Set (¥1,000) - somewhat of an acquired taste, to be sure, but definitely worth a shot. The set includes an entire urchin, so experienced eaters are in for a real treat.
Opening hours: 4.30am-1pm
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Onigiri at Marutoyo

The impressive rice balls lined up at Marutoyo come in a variety of shapes and sizes. Don't shy away from the flatter ones either: it's a cosmetic flaw at best. These original creations are filled generously with Tsukiji's most valued fare: roasted fatty mackerel, salted fish innards, nintama miso, oysters, octopus, and clams. Donburi rice bowls and lunch boxes are also on sale here.
Opening hours: 3am-2pm
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Croissants at Bakery Le Pain

Find this orange-coloured bakery on Namiyoke Street just outside the market. Le Pain serves up freshly baked bread and great coffee, but we feel obliged to highlight the excellent croissants. Start with the slightly salty Red Bean Jam Croissant for a Japanese original, or choose from varieties like the creamy Vanilla Croissant, the Maple Pecan, or the healthy Five Grains Croissant.
Opening hours: 6am-2pm
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