50 things to do in Koenji

26. Let this tempura egg surprise you...

You wouldn’t think a tempura soft-boiled egg served over rice could be so delicious, but the Tamago Lunch dish at this counter seat-only speciality tempura spot is simply irresistible. The chefs’ unique frying ‘performance’ is pretty cool, and the owner speaks good English. Tensuke map and opening hours

27. Browse and eat...

Vintage decor creates a comfy atmosphere at this charming shop and diner that sits inside a renovated Japanese house. Browse kitchen products, food seasonings and natural-fibre clothing, and enjoy meals prepared using fresh, seasonal ingredients. Re: Gendo map and opening hours

28. Sweeten up with honey...

Besides honey made in Japan, this shop on Kyokai-dori shopping street sells over 60 varieties of honey imported from nine countries as well as honey-based beauty and health products. Definitely try the Ogikubo roll cake. Mère De L'abeille map and opening hours

29. Enjoy coffee in a loft...

This café’s charm lies in its unique decor and design – colourful illustrations adorn the walls and you can’t help but feel like a kid as you climb the ladder to the loft seats, where you can enjoy coffee, fruit tea or something off the food menu. Hattifnatt map and opening hours

30. Find comfort in home-made meals...

Missing home cooking? This casual American restaurant comes to the rescue with BBQ spare ribs, the El Pato burger (with 100% beef patty), and other home-made comfort foods including pizza, pasta and bread. El Pato map and opening hours

31. Mix with local stars...

Mingle with film stars, manga artists, musos and other creatives at this lively street that stretches along the elevated railway tracks from the north exit of Asagaya Station. You’ll find everything from izakayas and mom-and-pop restaurants to coffee shops and upmarket eateries. Star Road Shopping Street map

32. Make friends with phak chi...

In Nishi-Ogikubo, this Thai restaurant is the bomb. It’s small, tucked away, reasonably priced and reminds us of the kind of restaurants found in Southeast Asia. The spice is mostly mild and coriander (phak chi) is the star of the show, featuring even in their cocktails. Handsome Shokudo map and opening hours

33. Pick up antique or modern pottery...

A pottery shop featuring both antique pieces and works by contemporary artists, including owner Fumihiko Oshima’s own designs. Also hosts special monthly exhibitions of pottery, woodwork and metalwork. Rozan map and opening hours

34. Visit a cult music bar...

Operating a 40m² music bar decorated with everything from Hello Kitty to Buddha, the eccentric Muzenhoshi (‘no-good monk’) can be a little unfriendly towards young female patrons but retains a cult following in the neighbourhood. His cocktails taste far better than their cryptic names suggest. Muryoku Muzenji map and opening hours

35. Find inspiration in a park...

Although small, this park is home to colourful playground equipment enjoyed by throngs of kids. Rumour has it the park served as a model for one featured in Haruki Murakami’s novel ‘1Q84’. Koenji Chuo Park map

36. Combine coffee and Chopin...

Classical music fans will love whiling away hours in this café that’s styled on a Viennese music hall (on a scale of 1:25) and plays favourites like Bach and Mozart. The owner cut no corners in the acoustics, either – he even made the plethora of speakers himself. Violon map and opening hours

37. Munch on crispy katsudon...

Although it looks like any ordinary Chinese restaurant, this eatery is famed for its katsudon. The recipe is three generations old and combines a crunchy fried pork cutlet with sweet dashi, onions and egg, on rice. Even the fiercest critics fall for it. Sakamotoya map and opening hours

38. Relax and be healthy...

With vegetables delivered directly from organic farmers, a daily changing menu, and coffee brewed with organic coffee beans, this is a natural-food gem. They also sell the delicious spices used in their dishes. Poleyale map and opening hours

39. Catch a Showa era flick...

This spaceship-like building with a ‘hanging’ garden features a mini cinema that shows both obscure and well-known Showa-era Japanese film masterpieces, and also houses the Zamza Asagaya Theater and the charming Restaurant Yamaneko-ken. Laputa Asagaya map and opening hours

40. Watch the drama play out....

Pritzker award-winning architect Toyo Ito is the creative behind the interesting tent-like exterior of this public theatre, founded by Suginami City. Aside from staging dance and drama, they host readings of plays and illustrated books at the café, and hold 'story time' workshops for kids. Za-Koenji Public Theatre map and opening hours

41. Taste Okinawan home cooking...

As advertised, this restaurant will make you feel like you’ve stepped into a mini Okinawa in the middle of Tokyo. Relish Okinawan dishes – don’t leave without trying the perfectly seasoned Goya Champuru (stir-fry) – in a lively atmosphere that’s also great for just sharing drinks with friends. Dachibin map and opening hours

42. Source rare picture books...

A hidden haven for picture book enthusiasts, this store stocks both Japanese tales and a variety of foreign books from as far afield as Czech Republic. Prices range from cheap to ¥10,000, and you can pick up interesting souvenirs such as palm-sized books, Russian pin badges, postcards and more. Ehonya Rusubanbansuru Kaisha map and opening hours

43. Be a kid in a bar...

Love model car racing? Then you'll fit right in with the regulars at this bar, where most of the floor area is occupied by a lovingly crafted miniature race track, vintage models and spare parts. Check out the cars on sale, too. Hideaway Garage map and opening hours

44. Overload on cat cuteness...

One for the cat fanatics, this cramped store stocks all sorts of fun, handmade items with cat motifs, including impressive, surreal artworks. The resident kitty lives in the back and will see you off at the register. Nekonohitai map and opening hours

45. Improve your luck...

Free yourself from bad luck with a special prayer available only at this beautifully refurbished shrine that’s devoted to the sun goddess Amaterasu and frequently hosts traditional wedding ceremonies. Asagaya Shinmeiguu Shrine map and opening hours

46. Pair craft beer with spicy jerk chicken...

Enjoy an array of craft beers carefully selected from around Japan. Pair your brew with a complementary dish of Jerk Chicken, which is marinated for 24 hours in the house sauce made of 15 different spices and fruits, then grilled slowly over a charcoal fire. Mouth watering yet? Craft Beer Stand Turquoise map and opening hours

47. Have a Hanoi-style helping..

If you're not one of those fancy types who like their meat all nicely chopped up and domesticated, this Vietnamese barbecue shop will be a fun experience. Their spicy chicken legs, squid and shrimp work nicely after a night out at the bars. Binh Minh map and opening hours

48. Forget the daily grind...

Not all kissaten (old-school coffee shops) in Tokyo are worth the moniker, but this one sure makes the grade: stained-glass windows, antique clocks and the soft jazz soundtrack make you feel like you’ve stepped back in time. Monozuki map and opening hours

49. Count the curry spices...

This small, European-style curry shop is run by a husband-and-wife team who spend an entire week preparing their curry stock that’s based on fond de veau and 36 spices. We recommend the Wagyu Java Curry with the seasonal veg as a sidedish. Prepare to queue. Tomato map and opening hours

50. Eat curry with owls...

Always wanted to get up close and personal with an owl? Here you can sip on tea or coffee carefully selected by the owner, or enjoy a bowl of curry, while engaging in a stare-off with the feathery creatures. It's more tranquil than it sounds. Just be careful not to touch them – although the owls have been trained to be around humans, being touched makes them a tad stressed. Cafe Baron map and opening hours