50 things to do in Koenji

Known as 'Anime Town', Suginami City – which is classed as one of Tokyo's special wards – makes good on its reputation with a lineup of around 70 production studios, including Gundam creators Sunrise Inc. A central part of the local economy, the industry even runs its own, visit-worthy Suginami Animation Museum. The ward is also popular for its shotengai (old-school shopping streets), which are found outside practically every station in Suginami City. An essential part of the local experience, each shotengai has its own colour and vibe. In this guide, we've focused on the coolest 'hood, Koenji, but we've also featured interesting spots to visit in Asagaya, Ogikubo and Nishi-Ogikubo. Here's a snapshot of each area before you get stuck into our pick of the top 50 things to do:

Koenji: Famed for its underground music scene and scores of hip eateries and bars, Koenji hosts Tokyo's premier Awa Odori (dance) festival in August and lays claim to the title of 'Tokyo's coolest neighbourhood' year-round.
Asagaya: This area has served as the base for a wide range of subcultural communities since the radical '60s, but is now most renowned for its high concentration of anime studios and its refined entertainment scene, which includes an annual jazz festival.
Ogikubo: An unmissable stop on any Tokyo ramen tour, Ogikubo is home to some of the city's most venerable noodle houses. Its cultural history is just as rich, having been the centre of activities for several Showa-era literary greats.
Nishi-Ogikubo: Curiously combining quaint antique shops, scruffy cafés, upscale apartment buildings and dirt-cheap watering holes on the western edge of Suginami City, Nishi-Ogikubo gives off a quiet vibe while offering plenty to explore.

1. Discover the soul of Koenji...

Packed with restaurants and niche vendors carrying a variety of Asian goods, this retro street hints at how Koenji came to be nicknamed ‘Japan’s India’. Lanterns illuminate the alleys from nightfall and contribute to the energetic atmosphere. Ramen lovers: stop by the underground Nibangai (2nd street). Koenji Street map

2. Boost health with Japanese tea leaves...

The Japanese tea leaves here are top quality, inexpensive and delicious – we recommend the ‘deep steamed tea’, known for its anti-carcinogenic antioxidants. You can also pick up Japanese teapots and packs of seaweed. Chadokoro Tsukiji map and opening hours

3. Sample French fusion shellfish...

This tiny restaurant on a Koenji backstreet specialises in transforming simple shellfish dishes into something more special, for example sashimi becomes a French fusion mille-feuille. Ask for the sake tasting set if you can’t decide on which nihonshu to pair with dinner. Abusan map and opening hours

4. Make some noise...

Punk, hardcore and noise bands are on stage day and night at this incarnation of Koenji 20000V, which used to be an institution on the Koenji live scene. This new spot breathes life back into the area once hailed for its unique energy. Higashi-Koenji 20000 Den-atsu map and opening hours

5. Drink with otaku...

The figurines, DVDs and comic books lying around are impressive, sure, but the true attraction at this tiny otaku paradise is the owner/bartender who, when prompted, will mix you a drink based on your favourite fictional character – no matter who or what it might be. 44Sonic map and opening hours

6. Slurp the finest soba...

Serving soba since 1924, Honmura-an uses the finest locally produced buckwheat, ground fresh every day, for its noodles. A glass screen lets you glimpse the making of the soba, and the Japanese garden designed by bonsai artists is ultra pretty. Honmura-an map and opening hours

7. Order bespoke leather shoes...

After switching from advertising to shoe shining, the owner of this shop moved into shoe making and now produces made-to-order leather footwear, impeccably crafted from wooden moulds. He also does repairs and stocks other goods – check out the leather sleeve for paper cups. Amakusa Factory map and opening hours

8. Prepare for a sugar overload...

This long-standing sweet shop sells the best dorayaki – soft red bean paste between two slices of honey-flavoured sponge cake, presented in the cutest rabbit-shaped package. Eating in? Try their heavenly anmitsu dessert (boiled beans, agar jelly cubes and molasses) topped with bean jam. Usagiya map and opening hours

9. Sip a cuppa with dolls...

Folk toys and tea might sound like an unorthodox combination, but this cutesy shop gets the mix just right with powerful brews and charming traditional kokeshi dolls and clay figurines displayed in every corner. Nishiogi Itochi map and opening hours

10. Indulge a meat craving...

Best dish on the menu? The Chateaubriand, with beautifully marbled meat slowly grilled to perfection at the hands of skilled chefs. Place meat on rice, pour on special-recipe tamari soy sauce, and dig in. Be sure to book ahead. Sato Briand Nigou map and opening hours

11. Read, drink, snack...

Love secondhand books? Love drinking? Love snacking? Do all three at this quiet ‘book bar’ whose characterful owner creates dishes often inspired by fiction – for example, the Taisho Croquette, made from tofu pulp and fish paste, is based on a recipe in a novel. Cocktail Shobo map and opening hours

12. Sleep in Showa-era style...

Registered as a Tangible Cultural Property of Japan, this inn carries the atmosphere of the Showa era (1926-1989) and has famously appeared in anime series such as 'Mawaru Pengu indrum' and 'The Idolmaster'. From ¥6,000 per night. Ryokan Seikou map and opening hours

13. Try sardine-flavoured ramen...

Established in 1949, this ramen shop is famed for its home-made noodles and soup, made from a rich niboshi (dried sardine) broth along with vegetables, pork and chicken bones. Added to that is a soy sauce-flavoured sauce, giving it a distinct Japanese taste. Harukiya map and opening hours

14. Step into Motoo Otaguro's garden...

Built on the site of the late music critic Motoo Otaguro's residence, this Japanese garden features a stone-paved walkway lined with gingko trees, a tearoom, a lake brimming with carp, and a villa that was once Otaguro’s office but is now open to the public as a museum. Otaguro Park map and opening hours

15. Appreciate artisanal coffee....

A specialist coffee store that roasts their own Single Origin beans. On your first visit, ask a member of staff to recommend a type of coffee to try – you won’t be disappointed. Coffee Amp map and opening hours

16. Stock up on all things fish...

Using fish from Tsukiji Market, this delicatessen specialises in fish goods, from fried fish balls to fish paste, fish cakes and chikuwa (a traditional fish snack). They also have a large oden pot at the front of the store, giving you the chance to enjoy this winter 'hot pot' year-round. Kamajyuu Kamabokoten map and opening hours

17. Satisfy your curiousity...

Their main business may be paper and stationery, but where this quirky shop really shines is in the curiosity section: old medicine pouches, price tags, letter sets and stamps line the shelves, in perfect but unlikely harmony with the more modern wares. Hachimakura map and opening hours

18. Savour fine seafood...

Originally a popular yakitori (chicken skewers) restaurant, Torimoto Honten moved to a backstreet and transformed itself into a purveyor of fine seafood and spirits. Fresh fish is shipped in from Hokkaido and you can sample rare young salmon year-round. They still sell yakitori, but the seafood’s a must. Torimoto Honten map and opening hours

19. Have an onsen, eat washoku...

With six floors of hot-spring baths, standard and stone saunas, massage zones and rest areas, Nagomi no Yu puts your average public bathhouse to shame. The third-floor cafeteria serves washoku (traditional Japanese cuisine) and sake, while bathing suits and amenities can be borrowed at the reception. Nagomi no Yu map

20. Wade through a style maze...

Koenji’s most chaotic (and famous) collection of clothing stores. You’ll find unique brands like Hayatochiri, Southpaw, Garter and Ilil, as well as the office of contemporary artist collective Chim-Pom, which turns into a shop called Kane-Zanmai on weekends. Kita-Kore Building map and opening hours

21. Shop for unique vintage...

Sokkyou (‘improvisation’) is both the name and concept of this vintage shop, which stocks women’s and men’s clothing that ‘defies classification’. Items are from the ’20s to ’90s, with some pieces dating as far back as the Meiji era (1868-1912). Sokkyou map and opening hours

22. Feel at home with art...

An invaluable refuge for artsy types with a couple of hours to burn, Mizunosora gallery is found inside a beautifully remodelled home and hosts a new exhibit every month, while the café at the back serves up basic drinks like coffee and tea. Mizunosora map and opening hours

23. Collect comics...

As the so-called ‘headquarters’ for Japanese fans of foreign comics, ACBD stocks American comic books translated into Japanese. They also have a great selection of English paperbacks and mags. The clientele is diverse and regulars enjoy fun ‘reunions’ at the store, so we're told. ACBD map and opening hours

24. Soak with the locals...

Throw off your inhibitions and bathe with the regulars at this wonderfully old-school sento (public bathhouse) featuring an impressive menu of soaking options, including a scented bath and a milk bath. If the water feels a tad hot, try concentrating on the majestic Mt Fuji murals decorating both the men's and women's sections. Kosugi-yu map and opening hours

25. Immerse yourself in anime culture...

Asagaya in Suginami Ward has long been known for its many anime-related shops and businesses, and that reputation was enhanced by the 2014 opening of this cluster of around 16 different establishments – including a figurine workshop, a cosplay dress-up shop, an anime creation college, and stores with a variety of gashapon machines – under the Chuo line tracks between Koenji and Asagaya stations. Asagaya Anime Street map and opening hours