Raku Raku

As Japan’s most traditional city, Kyoto suffers a reputation for being haughty and aloof. Here’s the counterpoint: a bar-restaurant where staff might break into an impromptu musical jam and customers are likely to strike up a conversation with any fresh face. Indeed, the place’s name means ‘easygoing’ in Japanese. Even though the menu won’t excite you (‘spaghetti’ and ‘mixed fry’ are two of the options), the dishes are down-to-earth, and taste better than they sound. The friendly atmosphere makes a great contrast to the Zen hush of neighbouring Myoshin-ji.