Nakahigashi

The most sought-after seats in Kyoto are found at the eponymous kaiseki restaurant of Hisao Nakahigashi, brother of the brains behind Oku. Diners from across Japan compete for reservations and then plan their trips around the meal, and it’s worth joining the scramble. Each morning, the chef heads to the bucolic Ohara countryside to forage for wild herbs, shoots and greens. His menu depends upon what he finds outside, but the dishes are always restrained and unpretentious. The best seats are at the counter, where Nakahigashi explains the background of each course to his attentive fans. To bag a seat at this popular restaurant, try calling at 8am on the first day of the month before your visit.