Kichisen

Chef Yoshimi Tanigawa made a national splash with a 2001 triumph on the Iron Chef TV show. His classic, unfussy version of Kyoto’s ancient court cuisine is more orthodox than some kaiseki restaurants, but no less dazzling. Whether you notice or not, your food will be seasonal, right down to the tiniest detail, from ingredients to tableware to decor, the marks of a meticulous craftsman. The service by shaven-headed, kimono-clad male apprentice chefs is precise and courtly. Reservations essential.