25 Bejing dishes you have to try, Pt.4

16. Shanxi noodles
Get your knife-cut noodles or steamed oat rings par excellence at this Shanxi noodle joint, where it’s generally hard to go wrong. Watch cooks toss, pull, scrape, slice, dip and dunk almost every kind of noodle (15-28RMB).
Noodle Loft. Open 11am-10pm. 20 Xidawang Lu, Chaoyang district (6774 9950)

17. Dumplings
Everyone has their favourite dumpling place, but one thing that shoots any dumpling onto a higher pedestal is the option of frying. Here’s where Mr Shi, an earnest English speaker, is happy to oblige. His three-sided fried potstickers will rock your world. Choose your filling and get 15 per order (12RMB-23RMB).
Mr Shi’s Dumplings. Open 10am-11pm daily. 74 Baochao Hutong (off Gulou Dong Dajie), Dongcheng district (8405 0399)

18. Madoufu
This local snack, made from fried mung bean pulp, is the comfort food your grandma would make if she were from Beijing. The madoufu (10RMB) is traditionally cooked in lamb fat spiced with chilli and scallions, and looks like a plate of goop. But don’t judge by appearances, it is delicious. For vegetarians, a vegetable oil version is available.
Xian Lao Man. Open 11am-10pm daily. 5 Anhu Beili Yayuan, Dongcheng district (6404 6944).

19. Yoghurt
Local, homemade yoghurt seems to abound everywhere, but too often it’s sweetened. Try a 6RMB bowlful here for the real deal: topped with tart raisins, sesame seeds, peanuts and drizzled with honey if you choose.
Kashgar. Open 9.30am-10pm daily. 60 Pen’er Hutong (near the east end of Wanshou Park), Xuanwu district (6358 2243)

20. Beijing roast duck
At a standard weight of 2.9kg, these are not just any old ducks – locals call them ‘tianya’ (heavenly ducks). When the oven reaches 200C, the ducks are hung over the heat one by one. The oven houses up to 20 tianya. Da Dong uses guomu, or fruitwood, preferably from date trees. The logs need to be changed and replenished about four to five times while cooking each batch. After around 80 minutes, the duck is ready and will be skillfully carved into about 90 pieces, and assembled on two very full plates. The head and neck are served separately and the carcass is made into a broth. Ta-da! Da Dong’s Beijing duck is ready to serve. But before you pick up your chopsticks, remember to consult the waitress for a demonstration on how to eat it properly.
Da Dong. Open 11am-10pm daily. 1-2 Nanxincang Shangye Dasha, 22A Dongsishitiao, Dongcheng district (5169 0329)