Experiencing Ryoma Sakamoto

2010 is set to see an unprecedented craze for all things Ryoma Sakamoto. Best known as a rebel samurai and one of the driving forces behind the Meiji Restoration, Sakamoto lived through the turbulent Bakumatsu period, an era signalling the Tokugawa shogunate’s demise.

This time around, as present day economic woes hark to the tumultuous collapse of the Tokugawa shogunate, it’s not only ever-growing rekijo or female history fanatics looking for a modern day hero. This current fixation may in fact be because Japan needs a charismatic figure like Ryoma Sakamoto to both inspire and distract.

Its ratings linked to popular business trends, NHK’s year-long taiga or Sunday night drama ‘Ryomaden’ (‘The Legend of Ryoma Sakamoto’) is spearheading the Sakamoto boom. There are many other events on offer, however: Join Time Out Tokyo on a quest to learn more about Tosa, Kochi Shikoku-native Ryoma Sakamoto, and indulge in some historical escapism.

Receiving a personal greeting

Kochoran Koshitsu Ginza Wakadanna Ryomatei
Featuring Tosa-style private dining spaces, the entrance to this izakaya displays imagery juxtaposing Kochi’s famous Katsurahama beach and Ryoma himself. Moving into the restaurant, guests are greeted by a popular and photogenic 170cm statue of Ryoma ‘gazing’ at the sea. The restaurant’s signature seiromushi steamed dishes use Tosa ingredients. Other Kochi specials include the katsuo warayaki shio tataki (skipjack tuna lightly roasted over a straw fire), imbued with a unique smoky fragrance. Yamashio salt, sun-dried in the mountains of Kochi, imparts even greater flavour to the dish. An izakaya isn’t such without alcohol: keeping in the ‘local spirit’ of things is a wide range of shochu from Kochi’s 18 breweries.

Address: 3F Ginza Nogakudo Bldg, 6-5-15 Ginza, Chuo, Tokyo
Telephone: (03)5537 3181
Open: Daily 5–11.30pm, 5pm–4am (Fridays and days before holidays)
Website: www.diamond-dining.com/shop_info/tosa2/

Enjoy Tosa’s speciality ‘Tosa Kaizoku-yaki’

Tosa Kaizokumaru
Tosa Kaizokumaru specializes in kaizoku-yaki, a dish from Ryoma’s hometown of Tosa in Kochi Prefecture. Kaizoku means pirate, and ‘kaizoku-yaki’ is grilled seafood, with live abalone, sazae shellfish, scallops and prawns placed directly on the grill. Kochi’s chotarogai shellfish and nagareko abalone are also kept in fish tanks for guests to pick and choose. Staff (known as kaientai, a pun on the name of Ryoma’s private navy) will bravely pluck them from the tank and roast them at your table. The energetic Yosakoi dance is also performed on a daily basis, guaranteed to liven up any banquet.

Address: 2F Ginza Nogakudo Bldg, 6-5-15 Ginza, Chuo, Tokyo
Telephone: (03)5537 3257
Open: Mon-Fri 5pm–4am, Sat, Sun and nat. holidays 5am–11.30pm
Website: www.diamond-dining.com/shop_info/tosa2/

Indulging in ‘Ryoma-nabe’

Tosa Cuisine Neboke, Akasaka
Neboke offers a rare chance to try natural ma-kue fish from the oceans around the Nagasaki’s Goto Islands. The restaurant is offering a ‘NHK Taiga drama ‘Ryomaden’ Commemorative Menu’ for a limited time. The restaurant’s nabe hot pots contain the finest ingredients from the Kochi area, including hachikin chicken (bred from the shamo chicken Ryoma is said to have been fond of), Kuroshio pork, tofu made using Muroto city ocean water and homemade ponzu made from Kochi yuzu fruit. For 500yen you can also enjoy a glass of ‘Kaientai’ vintage sake, named in honour of Ryoma’s naval company.

Address: 3-11-17 Akasaka, Minato, Tokyo
Telephone: (03)3585 9640
Open: Mon-Fri 11.30am–2pm, 5–10.30pm (LO 9.30pm) Sat 4–10pm (LO 9pm) Closed: Sun and nat. holiday
Website: www.kazuoh.com/

More serious discourse

Kuramoto Ryoma
Kuramoto Ryoma is an ongoing informal get-together, allowing guests to discuss all things Sakamoto while enjoying high-quality Tosa sake. One recent event featured personal insights from Noboru Sakamoto, the ninth generation head of Sakamoto’s family, and a sake display from Kochi’s 18 breweries.

Address: B1F, 3-34-3 Hamadayama, Suginami, Tokyo
Website: kuraryou.jp/

Tracing the life and times of Ryoma through photos

Held at Tokyo Midtown’s ‘Fujifilm Square’, this exhibition traces the 33 years of Ryoma’s life through over 130 photographs. In addition to the photographs on show are maps, the Sakamoto family tree and letters Ryoma sent to his sister Otome. The ‘NHK Taiga drama ‘Ryomaden’ Exhibition’ is located in the same venue.

Date: until Thurs Feb 25
Open: 10am–7pm for the duration of the exhibition
Location: Fujifilm Square, 1st floor gallery ‘Photo Is
Address: 9-7-3 Akasaka, Minato, Tokyo
Phone: (03)6271 3350
Admission: Free
Website: fujifilmsquare.jp/en/

NHK Taiga Drama ‘Ryomaden’ Exhibition
‘Ryomaden’ (The Legend of Ryoma Sakamoto) is NHK’s annual drama serial which began broadcasting in January. Actors Masaharu Fukuyama, Ryoko Hirosue and Yoko Maki share their insights, with studio photographs and props also on display.

Tokyo tours connecting to Ryoma

Hato Bus Tour
Although hailing from Shikoku, a surprising number of Tokyo places boast connections to Ryoma Sakamoto. Hato Bus Tour’s ‘History Fieldwork Series Part Three: Retracing the Steps of Ryoma Sakamoto and Edo Bakumatsu with Yoji Kanda’ is a seven hour, professionally guided journey through such areas. Beginning at Tokyo Station, highlights include Sakuradamon, site of the naval training facility; Iwamotocho Chiba dojo; the Tosa domain city residence and Akasaka Hikawa Jinja shrine. Restaurant pit-stops continue the thematic with a specially made ‘Ryoma Gozen’ meal available to participants. Prices: adults 7,900yen, children 6,900yen.

Hato Bus
Website: www.hatobus.com/

Travel the skies with Ryoma

Wrapped up in Ryomaden
In ongoing publicity efforts for NHK’s drama serial ‘Ryomaden,’ ANA commissioned a jet bearing a photographic print of Ryoma Sakamoto ’s face. Standing two metres high and eleven metres wide, the photograph decorates the entire body of the plane. Unsurprisingly, the plane’s premiere flight flew the Haneda – Kochi ‘Ryoma’ route, but flights are now active throughout Japan, continuing through September 2010.

ANA
Website: www.ana.co.jp/asw/index.jsp?type=de

Following in Ryoma’s footsteps

ANA History Tour with Sadatomo Matsudaira
ANA have appointed former NHK announcer, and now honorary Waseda and Rikkyo University professor Matsudaira Sadatomo as their official Ryoma Sakamoto history ambassador. A must for any Ryoma connoisseur, bookings currently open for his inaugural tours include a February 27 tour to Nagasaki, March 6 to Kochi and March 13 to Matsuyama.

ANA Domestic Tours
Website: www.ana.co.jp/domtour/skh/09b_rekishi1003/

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