Funaoka Onsen

Technically it’s a sento (Japanese bathhouse) rather than an onsen (hot spring) since the heat is artificial, but why quibble over details when the place is as atmospheric and historic as this. The interior has barely changed since this bathhouse opened more than eight decades ago, so you can still admire the elm carvings depicting Japanese troops invading Manchuria. The nostalgic decor draws Kyoto’s traditional types, which means that ladies might find themselves bathing with geisha, and gents often have the dubious privilege of sharing their tub with tattooed yakuza. The wide range of baths include steaming hot and freezing cold water, a bath with Chinese medicines, and a tub that zaps bathers with a mild current.