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How to buy Kokura-ori

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How to buy Kokura-ori

Beverley Milner

Japanese designers have long been pushing the islands’ sartorial envelope and in Kyushu’s Fukuoka prefecture, you’ll find a tailor marrying these modern trends with traditional techniques. Kokura-ori is a hardwearing cotton weave with smart stripes that predate Paul Smith by three millennia. This tramlined textile was originally used to dress the Buzen Kokura clan in the early 17th century, before falling out of fashion (along with wearing armour) and into extinction. Revived by Noriko Tsuiki and her sister Hideko Watanabe 25 years ago the fabric is now the basis of their Kokura Creation brand sold through their Shima-Shima shop. Hideko explains the appeal of the cloth.

Kokura-ori is an incredible material. It uses tiny weaves to make the strips, three times more than plain cloth. This makes it incredibly durable and the lustre actually increases after washing.

It is over 400 years old, but still feels modern. Kokura-ori dates back as early as the Edo period [which began in 1603], but thanks to its distinctive style, and the collaboration we’ve done with some great young designers, it feels very current.

It was extinct for 90 years. Following the Japanese-Sino War, Kokura-ori production stopped. I am very proud of my sister for bringing it back. She had to search all across Japan for the last few remaining examples of Kokura-ori and the tools used to create them. It was a tough mission but she succeeded.

The revival has spread across the world. It’s great to see Kokura-ori’s appeal spread across the world. It is displayed in the Tokyo Museum Of Modern Art and at the V&A in London. We ship everywhere and I am visiting a trade exhibition in Paris.

Still the best place to buy it is Fukuoka. I think when you visit Fukowaka (where the fabric originated and where Shima-Shima shop is based) you can really understand the material. Plus it is the only place you can see, feel and experience all the different types of cloth. It’s cheaper too.

Kokura Creation details

3-1-107 Ohte-machi, Kokurakita-ku, Kitakyushu city, Fukuoka
Telephone +81 93 561 0700
www.shima-shima.jp
info@shima-shima.jp

Please note: All information is correct at the time of writing but is subject to change without notice.

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