‘My family company, Usami Honten, has been producing saishikomi [double-fermented] soy sauce since 1896. I am the fourth generation, and only family members know the complete recipe.’

‘Obviously the recipe’s a secret, but what I can tell you is that instead of salt water we use a dark soy sauce for the second fermentation, creating a richer, darker, stronger sauce that is made specifically for sushi and sashimi. With good wasabi it is unbeatable.’

‘The philosophy of the company has always been based on freshness. Japanese culture revolves around the seasons, and so does our food.’

‘We also make a ponzu sauce, which is completely unique. It is made with the juice of daidais [a type of citrus fruit] grown in the only area allowed to provide the fruit to Japan’s imperial households. We have to peel each fruit by hand and the sauce’s distinctive sweet, sour and slightly salty flavour compliments a wide range of foods. We also make a daidai juice drink which, between you and me, makes a great mojito.’

‘Nine years ago my mother died and I tried to combine my father’s recipes, which he had handed down to me, and my mother’s calligraphy skills which I had inherited. I am always trying to combine these two spirits.’